Surfing just lost its filmmaker: Bruce Brown, director of The Endless Summer, has died at 80.
Brown never understood why the film caught on so widely. One of the surfers from the film told the Los Angeles Times in 1991, “In the Vietnam era, everybody needed something like that. God, you felt good when you left the theater.”
Endless Summer is a classic; you can stream it on Netflix. We love this lesser-known Brown film, Surfing Hollow Days, which contains the first footage of somebody surfing Hawaii's Pipeline break (jump to 1:05:30).