How far can you ride a wave.
A short movie in which the world's best longboarders try to ride the longest wave possible.
See also, from this summer in the Paris Review: the great art critic Dave Hickey recalls his brief, doomed days as a teenage surfer in Los Angeles.
I woke up in the hospital with two hernias and three splintered ribs, annoyed that I had missed the ambulance ride, and honest to God, I was amazingly proud of myself.