Farewell, Jean Georges. I've found a new beloved: Mas, the petite Provençal boîte with all the sophistication and raison d'être of pricier French restaurants plus charm to spare. Why l'amour? First, you can mix and match from the seasonal tasting and à la carte menus without so much as a sniff from the ever-attentive waiters. My picks? Portuguese sardines on a Parmesan sablé, roasted Meiller Farm lamb, and hazelnut pralinée. Then there's the hours: Dinner from 6 to 11 p.m. and small plates from 11:30 p.m to 4 a.m.

TMN Contributing Writer David Leite has stated a little too emphatically that he is not a food snob. (But we have it on good authority that while other people have moldering hot dog buns and withering mesclun in their fridge, he has been know to harbor lobes of foie gras, exotic mushrooms, and bottles of champagne.) He’s quick to note that he loves plain ole mac and cheese, but he was overseen recently pish-toshing at the waitress until the chef agreed to drizzle it with truffle oil. He’s not above a McDonald’s Filet-o-Fish, though. He’s also the publisher of the James Beard Award-winning website, Leite’s Culinaria, and the author of the upcoming cookbook The New Portuguese Table: Exciting Flavors From Europe’s Western Coast. More by David Leite

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