Mondovino comes with a caveat: it's endless, meandering, filmed with herky-jerky handling (to the point of making me nauseated), obsessed with industry celebrities, and at times so confusing (including the horribly designed subtitles) you double-check your remote in case there's an "Appendix" button. But it's also a peerless documentary about the global wine business that's got more terroir than any of Mondavi's bottles; to appropriate the critics' terms, it's extremely watchable.