Mondovino comes with a caveat: it's endless, meandering, filmed with herky-jerky handling (to the point of making me nauseated), obsessed with industry celebrities, and at times so confusing (including the horribly designed subtitles) you double-check your remote in case there's an "Appendix" button. But it's also a peerless documentary about the global wine business that's got more terroir than any of Mondavi's bottles; to appropriate the critics' terms, it's extremely watchable.

Rosecrans Baldwin co-founded TMN with publisher Andrew Womack in 1999. He is the author of three books, including his latest novel The Last Kid Left (NPR’s Best Books of the Year). His nonfiction appears in a variety of magazines, mostly GQ. More information can be found at More by Rosecrans Baldwin

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